This site has limited support for your browser. We recommend switching to Edge, Chrome, Safari, or Firefox.

Use coupon code WELCOME10 for 10% off your first order.

Cart 0

Sorry, looks like we don't have enough of this product.

Products
Pair with
Is this a gift?
Subtotal Free
Shipping, taxes, and discount codes are calculated at checkout

6 Knots Every Fly Fisher Must Master | Essential Fishing Knots | Fly Fishing Insider Podcast, Blog and Shop

6 Knots Every Fly Fisher Must Master | Essential Fishing Knots | Fly Fishing Insider Podcast, Blog and Shop

6 Knots Every Fly Fisher Must Master

I've watched hundreds of anglers lose trophy fish to knot failures that were completely preventable. A 25-inch brown takes your dry fly, makes a powerful run, and suddenly your line goes slack—the knot failed. Or you're fighting a fish and your tippet breaks at the knot connecting it to your leader. These heartbreaking moments happen because anglers never learned to tie reliable knots properly. After guiding for over a decade and tying thousands of knots on the water, I can tell you with absolute certainty: proper knots are non-negotiable for fly fishing success.

The good news? You don't need to know twenty different knots. Six proven knots cover every situation you'll encounter fly fishing, from connecting backing to fly line to attaching flies to tippet. Master these six knots—practice until you can tie them in the dark, in the cold, while standing waist-deep in current—and you'll never lose a fish to knot failure again. These aren't exotic competition knots or complicated specialty ties. They're time-tested connections that professional guides rely on daily because they work. Let's learn them correctly. Stock up on quality tippet and leaders from our accessories collection so you have the right materials for practicing these essential knots.

Table of Contents

Why Proper Knots Matter More Than You Think

Every connection in your fly fishing system is only as strong as its weakest knot. You can have a premium rod, the perfect fly, and ideal conditions, but one poorly tied knot ends your chance at landing fish. Here's why knot quality is critical:

Knot Strength vs. Line Strength

Here's a fact that surprises many anglers: no knot maintains 100% of the line's rated strength. When you tie any knot, you create stress points where the line bends around itself. The best knots retain 90-95% of line strength. Poor knots retain only 50-60%. This difference is enormous when fighting fish.

Example: You're using 5X tippet rated at 4.4 pounds. A properly tied improved clinch knot retains about 95% strength—roughly 4.2 pounds breaking strength. A poorly tied clinch (incomplete wraps, not seated properly) might retain only 60%—just 2.6 pounds. That 25-inch brown pulling 3 pounds of drag breaks your tippet instantly with the poor knot but lands safely with the good one.

Common Knot Failure Points

Slippage: Knot slides apart under pressure rather than breaking. Caused by insufficient wraps or improper seating.

Breaking at the Knot: Line breaks right at the knot due to stress concentration. Usually indicates the wrong knot for the application or improper tying technique.

Abrasion Failure: Line weakens at the knot from rubbing against itself during the fight. More common with certain knot types in specific applications.

The Cost of Poor Knots

Beyond lost fish, poor knots cost you fishing time. Every time you need to retie because a knot failed or looks questionable, you're not fishing. On a typical day, I tie maybe 5-10 knots total because mine are reliable. Anglers with poor knot skills retie constantly, losing an hour or more of productive fishing time to knot problems.

Knot-Tying Fundamentals

Before learning specific knots, understand these universal principles that apply to all knot tying:

Lubricate Before Tightening

Always wet your knots before cinching them tight. Use saliva, stream water, or commercial knot lube. Lubrication serves two critical functions: it reduces friction heat (which weakens line) and allows the knot to seat properly as you tighten it. Dry-tightened knots can lose 20-30% of their strength from heat damage alone.

Seat the Knot Properly

After lubricating, tighten the knot smoothly and firmly—not with sudden jerks. Pull steadily until the knot is fully seated and all slack is removed. Many knot failures occur because the knot wasn't fully tightened and seats during the fight instead of before it, often breaking in the process.

Trim Tag Ends Closely

After tightening, trim tag ends close to the knot—about 1/16 inch. Long tag ends catch weeds, create tangles, and look sloppy. Too-short tags (flush cuts) can allow knots to slip. Leave just enough to prevent slippage.

Test Your Knots

After tying any critical knot (especially fly-to-tippet connections), give it a firm pull to test. The knot should hold without slipping or breaking. If it fails during testing, it would have failed during the fight—better to know now.

Inspect Before Fishing

Check your knots regularly during fishing. Look for:

  • Fraying or damage at the knot
  • Knots that have loosened or shifted
  • Wind knots in tippet (weak points that will break)
  • Abrasion or discoloration indicating wear

Replace compromised tippet immediately. A 30-second retie is better than losing a trophy fish.

Knot 1: The Improved Clinch Knot

The improved clinch knot is your primary knot for attaching flies to tippet. It's quick to tie, retains 90-95% of line strength when tied properly, and works with flies from size 24 midges to size 2 streamers. This is the knot you'll tie most frequently—hundreds of times per season—so master it completely.

When to Use It

  • Attaching any fly to tippet (dry flies, nymphs, streamers)
  • Connecting tippet to tippet rings
  • Any situation requiring a small, strong connection to a hook eye or ring

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Thread 6-8 inches of tippet through the fly's hook eye. With very small flies (size 18+), you may need to use a hook eye cleaner or moisten the tippet end to help it pass through.

Step 2: Hold the fly in one hand and the tag end of tippet in the other. Wrap the tag end around the standing line (the line going back to your rod) 5-7 times. Use 5 wraps for heavy tippet (0X-3X), 6 wraps for medium tippet (4X-5X), and 7 wraps for fine tippet (6X-7X). The wraps should be neat and tight against each other, not overlapping.

Step 3: After completing your wraps, take the tag end and thread it back through the small loop right next to the hook eye (the loop formed when you first passed through the eye).

Step 4: Now thread that same tag end through the large loop you just created. This is the "improved" part of the improved clinch knot—this second pass-through dramatically increases knot strength.

Step 5: Moisten the knot thoroughly with saliva or water. Hold the fly firmly (pliers or hemostats work well) and pull the standing line slowly and steadily. The wraps will spiral down and gather at the hook eye as the knot tightens. Continue pulling until completely tight.

Step 6: Trim the tag end to about 1/16 inch. Give the connection a firm pull to test—it should be rock solid.

Common Mistakes

Too Few Wraps: Three or four wraps aren't enough—the knot will slip under pressure. Always use at least five wraps.

Overlapping Wraps: Wraps that cross over each other create weak points. Keep them neat and adjacent.

Forgetting the Second Pass-Through: If you skip threading through the large loop, you've tied a regular clinch knot, which is significantly weaker than the improved version.

Not Seating Properly: If you don't pull tight enough, the knot can seat during the fight and break. Pull firmly until you're certain it's completely tight.

Pro Tips

For very small flies (size 20+), the improved clinch can be difficult because the hook eye is tiny. Use good light, reading glasses if needed, and a hook eye cleaner. Some anglers switch to a simpler knot like the Davy knot for tiny flies, though the improved clinch is stronger when tied correctly.

Knot 2: The Surgeon's Knot

The surgeon's knot is the fastest, easiest knot for joining two pieces of line together—connecting tippet to leader, adding tippet sections, or building custom leaders. While not quite as strong as a blood knot (retains 85-90% vs. 90-95%), it's dramatically faster to tie and works even when line diameters differ significantly.

When to Use It

  • Adding fresh tippet to your leader
  • Connecting tippet sections of different diameters
  • Building custom tapered leaders
  • Any situation requiring a quick, reliable line-to-line connection
  • When working with lines that differ by more than .001" in diameter (blood knot becomes difficult)

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Overlap the two lines you're joining by 8-10 inches, creating a substantial overlap.

Step 2: Treating both lines as if they were a single line, form a simple overhand knot—but don't tighten it yet. You should have a loop with both lines passing through it together.

Step 3: Pass both lines through the loop a second time. This creates a double overhand knot, which is what gives the surgeon's knot its strength.

Step 4: Moisten the knot thoroughly. Hold one set of tag ends in one hand and the other set of standing lines in the other hand. Pull slowly and steadily—the knot will gather and tighten. Keep pulling until completely seated.

Step 5: Trim both tag ends to about 1/16 inch. Test the connection with a firm pull.

The Triple Surgeon's Knot Variation

For added strength (especially with very fine tippet or slick fluorocarbon), pass the lines through the loop three times instead of two. This triple surgeon's knot retains slightly more strength—about 90%—at the cost of a slightly bulkier knot.

Common Mistakes

Not Overlapping Enough: Short overlaps don't leave enough line to work with. Use at least 8 inches of overlap.

Single Pass Instead of Double: A single overhand knot is far weaker than the double surgeon's. Always pass through twice minimum.

Uneven Tightening: Pull all four strands evenly. If you pull one side much harder than the other, the knot seats improperly.

Wrong Lines Trimmed: Make sure you're trimming the tag ends, not the standing lines! This mistake is surprisingly common and leaves you with 1/16 inch of leader instead of a long tippet section.

Why I Prefer This Over Blood Knots for Most Applications

The blood knot is theoretically superior in strength, but the surgeon's knot is faster, works with greater diameter differences, and is easier to tie in cold weather or low light. On the water, speed and reliability matter. I can tie a surgeon's knot in 15 seconds versus 45+ seconds for a blood knot, and it's plenty strong for any fishing situation I encounter.

Make sure you have quality tippet material for practicing these knots—browse our accessories collection for fluorocarbon and nylon tippet in all the sizes you need.

Knot 3: The Nail Knot

The nail knot permanently connects your fly line to your leader butt section. You tie this knot once when setting up your line, and it stays in place for the entire season (or longer). A well-tied nail knot creates a smooth, low-profile connection that easily passes through your rod guides without catching.

When to Use It

  • Attaching leader to fly line (primary use)
  • Attaching backing to fly line (though specialized backing knots are often preferred)
  • Any permanent connection between fly line and monofilament

Step-by-Step Instructions (Using a Nail Knot Tool)

While you can tie nail knots with an actual nail or tube, I strongly recommend using a nail knot tool—they're inexpensive ($5-10) and make the process much easier and more consistent.

Step 1: Insert the nail knot tool alongside your fly line, with about 4-6 inches of the leader butt section laid along the tool and fly line.

Step 2: Wrap the leader butt section around the fly line and tool, working back toward the end of the fly line. Make 6-7 tight, neat wraps. Keep wraps tight and adjacent to each other.

Step 3: Thread the tag end of the leader through the hole in the nail knot tool (or through the tube if using a tube).

Step 4: While holding the wraps firmly so they don't unravel, carefully remove the tool, pulling the leader tag end through the wraps as you do.

Step 5: Moisten thoroughly. Pull the tag end with one hand while holding the fly line with the other. The wraps will tighten down on the fly line. Pull firmly until completely tight.

Step 6: Trim both the tag end of the leader and the tag end of the fly line close to the knot—about 1/16 inch. Some anglers apply a small drop of flexible super glue (Zap-A-Gap or similar) to the finished knot for added security and smoothness.

Manual Nail Knot (Without Tool)

If you don't have a tool, use a small nail, toothpick, or coffee stirrer:

Lay the nail alongside the fly line. Place the leader butt along both. Wrap the leader around the nail and fly line 6-7 times. Thread the tag end through the gap between the nail and the fly line. Remove the nail while maintaining tension on the wraps. Pull tight and trim.

Testing the Nail Knot

After tying and trimming, pull hard on the leader—really hard. The nail knot should be completely immovable. If it slides at all, cut it off and retie. A properly tied nail knot will not fail unless the line itself breaks.

Alternative: Loop-to-Loop Connection

Many modern fly lines come with welded loops on the end, allowing you to use a loop-to-loop connection instead of a nail knot. This makes changing leaders quick and easy. If your line has a welded loop, use the perfection loop (Knot 4) to create a loop in your leader, then connect them loop-to-loop.

Essential Tools for Knot Tying

Make knot tying easier with the right tools. Check our accessories collection for nail knot tools, nippers for clean cuts, hemostats, and everything else you need for reliable connections on the water.

Knot 4: The Perfection Loop

The perfection loop creates a small, strong loop in the end of a line. It's primarily used to create loops in leaders for loop-to-loop connections, but it's also useful for attaching flies when you want the fly to have maximum freedom of movement (especially effective with streamers).

When to Use It

  • Creating a loop in the butt section of your leader for loop-to-loop connection to fly line
  • Making loops for attaching heavy tippet to leaders
  • Attaching streamers when you want maximum fly action
  • Creating droppers in multi-fly rigs

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Form a loop near the end of your line by bringing the tag end back alongside the standing line. Hold this loop between your thumb and forefinger, with about 3-4 inches of tag end extending.

Step 2: Take the tag end and wrap it once around the standing line, creating a second loop behind the first loop. This second loop should overlap the first loop.

Step 3: Hold both loops between your thumb and forefinger. Take the tag end and bring it between the two loops you've created.

Step 4: Push the second loop (the one you created with the wrap) through the first loop. Use your fingers or a hook to help pull it through.

Step 5: Moisten and pull the standing line. As you pull, the knot will tighten down on itself, forming a compact loop. The tag end gets trapped in the knot.

Step 6: Trim the tag end to about 1/16 inch. The resulting loop should be small, neat, and very strong.

Loop Size Matters

For leader-to-fly line connections, make loops about 1/4 to 3/8 inch in diameter—small enough to pass through guides easily but large enough to pass the fly line's welded loop through comfortably.

Common Mistakes

Loops Too Large: Oversized loops catch in guides and create messy connections. Keep them compact.

Wrong Loop Pulled Through: Make sure you're pulling the second loop through the first, not the tag end. This mistake creates a slip knot instead of a perfection loop.

Not Seating Completely: Pull firmly until the knot is completely tight. Partially seated perfection loops can slip under load.

Loop-to-Loop Connections

To connect two loops: Pass one loop through the other loop, then pass the entire leader (or fly line) through the first loop and pull tight. The result is a secure, smooth connection that's easy to change when needed.

Knot 5: The Double Surgeon's Loop

The double surgeon's loop is an alternative to the perfection loop—easier to tie but slightly bulkier. It creates a strong loop in the end of a line using the same principles as the surgeon's knot. I teach this to beginners who find the perfection loop confusing, though I personally prefer the perfection loop for its compactness.

When to Use It

  • Creating loops in leaders when perfection loop is too difficult
  • Quick loop creation on the water
  • Same applications as perfection loop, accepting slightly more bulk

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Double back 6-8 inches of line to form a long loop.

Step 2: Treating the doubled line as a single strand, tie an overhand knot—but don't tighten it yet.

Step 3: Pass the loop end through the overhand knot opening a second time, creating a double overhand knot.

Step 4: Moisten thoroughly. Pull both the loop and the standing line to tighten the knot. Adjust loop size before fully tightening.

Step 5: Once tight, trim the tag end to about 1/16 inch.

Advantages Over Perfection Loop

Faster to tie, easier to learn, nearly foolproof. The disadvantage is bulk—the double surgeon's loop is noticeably larger than a perfection loop, which can catch in guides more readily.

Knot 6: The Blood Knot

The blood knot is the strongest knot for joining two pieces of similar-diameter line, retaining about 90-95% of line strength. It's more difficult to tie than the surgeon's knot but creates a slimmer, stronger connection. Advanced anglers who build custom leaders often prefer blood knots for their strength and low profile.

When to Use It

  • Joining leader sections of similar diameter when building custom leaders
  • Creating the strongest possible line-to-line connection
  • When a low-profile knot is critical (euro nymphing leaders)
  • Joining lines that differ by no more than .001" in diameter

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Overlap the two lines by about 6 inches, holding them where they cross with one hand.

Step 2: Take one tag end and wrap it around the other standing line 4-5 times, keeping wraps neat and adjacent.

Step 3: Bring that tag end back and thread it through the gap between the two lines at the point where they originally crossed (where you're holding them).

Step 4: Now take the other tag end and wrap it around its opposite standing line 4-5 times in the opposite direction from the first wraps.

Step 5: Thread this second tag end back through the same gap as the first tag end, but going in the opposite direction. The two tag ends should exit the knot on opposite sides of the gap.

Step 6: Moisten thoroughly. Pull both standing lines slowly and steadily. The wraps will slide together, meeting at the center gap. Continue pulling until completely tight.

Step 7: Trim both tag ends close to the knot.

Why It's Difficult

The blood knot requires maintaining tension on multiple points simultaneously while making wraps in opposite directions. It's easy to lose track of which end you're working with or let wraps unravel. This knot takes practice.

Practice Tips

Practice at home with brightly colored lines of different colors so you can easily distinguish which end is which. Once you've tied it successfully 20-30 times, it becomes much easier. Many expert anglers can tie blood knots quickly and reliably, but it took them considerable practice to reach that point.

When to Skip the Blood Knot

If lines differ in diameter by more than .001", the blood knot becomes unreliable. Use a surgeon's knot instead—it handles diameter differences much better. Also, in cold weather or low light, the surgeon's knot is the practical choice over the blood knot.

Complete Rigging: Which Knot When

Here's how these six knots work together to create a complete fly fishing rig:

Building Your System from Reel to Fly

Backing to Reel: Arbor knot (not covered here—very simple knot specific to this one application)

Backing to Fly Line: Nail knot or manufacturer's connection

Fly Line to Leader: Nail knot OR perfection loop in leader connected to fly line's welded loop (loop-to-loop)

Leader to Tippet: Surgeon's knot (or blood knot if you prefer)

Adding Tippet Sections: Surgeon's knot

Tippet to Fly: Improved clinch knot

Special Situations

Dropper Rigs (Two Flies):

  • First fly attached with improved clinch knot
  • Second fly attached to bend of first fly's hook with improved clinch knot, or
  • Tag end from surgeon's knot left long (8-12 inches) with second fly attached to tag

Indicator Rigs:

  • Indicator attached to leader with improved clinch knot or manufacturer's attachment method
  • Tippet to leader with surgeon's knot below indicator
  • Flies attached with improved clinch knots

Euro Nymphing:

  • Custom leaders built entirely with blood knots for slimmest profile
  • Sighter material connected with blood knots
  • Flies attached with improved clinch knots

Knot Replacement Schedule

Replace Every Trip:

  • Fly-to-tippet knots (changed with every fly change)
  • Leader-to-tippet knot if you've caught several fish or the tippet looks worn

Replace Every Few Trips:

  • Tippet sections that show wear or abrasion
  • Leader if it's developed wind knots or shows damage

Replace Once Per Season:

  • Nail knot (fly line to leader)
  • Entire leader if heavily used

Rarely Replace:

  • Backing to fly line (check annually, replace if damaged)

Troubleshooting Knot Failures

When knots fail, there's always a reason. Here's how to diagnose and prevent common failures:

Problem: Knot Slips During Fight

Causes:

  • Insufficient wraps (improved clinch with only 3-4 wraps)
  • Knot not fully seated before fishing
  • Using wrong knot for application
  • Slick fluorocarbon not cinched tight enough

Solutions:

  • Use minimum 5 wraps for improved clinch (6-7 for fine tippet)
  • Pull knots very tight after tying—test with firm pull
  • With fluorocarbon, use triple surgeon's instead of double, or extra wraps on improved clinch
  • Moisten ALL knots before tightening

Problem: Line Breaks at Knot

Causes:

  • Knot not moistened before tightening (heat damage)
  • Line kinked or damaged at knot
  • Sharp hook eye cutting tippet
  • Old, degraded tippet material

Solutions:

  • Always moisten knots before tightening
  • Inspect knot area—if line looks kinked or whitened, retie
  • Check hook eyes for burrs—file smooth if needed
  • Replace tippet spools annually—UV and age degrade line

Problem: Can't Get Knot Tight

Causes:

  • Not enough friction to cinch down
  • Working with very thick or stiff material
  • Trying to tie knot that's inappropriate for line size

Solutions:

  • Use pliers or hemostats to grip line for extra pulling power
  • Ensure adequate wraps—more wraps = more friction = easier tightening
  • With thick leader material, consider different knot or use loop-to-loop connection

Problem: Knot Catches in Rod Guides

Causes:

  • Nail knot tied improperly or tag ends too long
  • Surgeon's knot too bulky
  • Loop-to-loop connection not seated properly

Solutions:

  • Trim nail knot tag ends very close, coat with flexible glue for smoothness
  • Use perfection loop instead of double surgeon's loop for lower profile
  • Pull loop-to-loop connections very tight—they should pass through guides smoothly

Keep your rigging organized with quality storage solutions from our accessories collection, including tippet holders, leader wallets, and tool systems.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I replace my tippet even if it looks fine?

Replace tippet spools annually regardless of appearance. UV exposure, temperature changes, and time degrade monofilament and fluorocarbon even when not in use. Tippet on your reel (attached to leader) should be replaced every 3-5 trips or whenever it shows wear—nicks, abrasion, discoloration, or stiffness all indicate it's time for fresh material. When fishing, check your tippet frequently by running it between your fingers—you'll feel nicks and rough spots before you can see them. Replace immediately if you detect damage. A $5 spool of tippet is infinitely cheaper than losing a trophy fish.

Should I use monofilament or fluorocarbon tippet?

Both have advantages. Fluorocarbon is nearly invisible underwater (refractive index very close to water), sinks faster, and has excellent abrasion resistance—ideal for nymphing and fishing to very selective trout in clear water. Monofilament is more supple, easier to tie knots with, less expensive, and floats better—excellent for dry fly fishing. For most fishing, I use fluorocarbon for nymphing and monofilament for dry flies. In very clear water with spooky fish, fluorocarbon for everything. Your choice matters less than proper knot tying—a good knot with mono beats a poor knot with fluorocarbon every time.

What's the strongest knot for fly fishing?

The blood knot retains the highest percentage of line strength (90-95%) when joining two lines, making it technically the strongest line-to-line connection. For fly-to-tippet, the improved clinch knot also retains 90-95% when tied properly, making it essentially as strong as the line itself. However, "strongest" isn't always "best"—the surgeon's knot retains slightly less strength (85-90%) but is faster and easier, making it more reliable in practice. A perfectly tied surgeon's knot is stronger than an imperfectly tied blood knot. Focus on tying your chosen knots correctly rather than chasing maximum theoretical strength.

Why do my knots keep breaking even though I'm tying them correctly?

If you're confident your knot tying technique is good, the problem likely lies elsewhere: (1) Old tippet material that's degraded—replace it; (2) Not moistening knots before tightening, causing heat damage; (3) Tippet diameter too light for the fish you're fighting—use heavier tippet; (4) Sharp hook eyes damaging tippet at the knot—check for burrs; (5) Setting the hook too hard, creating shock loads beyond tippet strength; (6) Playing fish too long, causing tippet fatigue at stress points. Check these factors systematically, and you'll likely identify the actual problem.

Can I use the same knots for saltwater fly fishing?

Yes, these six knots work for saltwater with one important modification: use the non-slip mono loop instead of the improved clinch knot for attaching flies to tippet in saltwater. The non-slip mono loop handles the heavier lines and stronger fish better than a clinch knot. For leader connections, the surgeon's knot and blood knot work perfectly in saltwater. Always rinse saltwater tackle thoroughly after use—salt crystals can weaken knots and corrode materials. Otherwise, the principles remain the same: moisten before tightening, use adequate wraps, and test your knots.

Final Thoughts: Practice Until Perfect

Knot tying is a fundamental skill that directly determines whether you land fish or lose them. Every trophy you catch depends on every knot in the system holding under pressure. There are no shortcuts here—either you tie reliable knots or you don't. The good news is that these six knots, once mastered, cover literally every situation you'll encounter in fly fishing.

Practice at home, not on the water. Sit down with fresh tippet material and practice each knot 20-30 times. Work until you can tie them with your eyes closed, in poor light, with cold fingers. The investment of 2-3 hours of practice at home pays dividends for your entire fishing career.

Moisten every knot, every time. This one habit prevents more knot failures than any other single practice. Saliva works fine. Stream water works. Just make sure the knot is wet before you pull it tight.

Don't rush. An extra 15 seconds to tie a knot correctly is far better than losing a fish to a hastily tied knot that fails. Quality over speed, especially when you're learning. Speed comes naturally with practice.

Test your knots. After tying any critical knot, give it a firm pull. If it's going to fail, better during testing than during the fight. This simple habit catches improperly tied knots before they cost you fish.

Replace worn components proactively. Tippet is cheap. Trophy trout are rare. When in doubt about tippet condition, replace it. When a knot looks questionable, retie it. The few minutes spent maintaining your rigging prevents heartbreaking losses.

These six knots—improved clinch, surgeon's, nail knot, perfection loop, double surgeon's loop, and blood knot—represent decades of evolution in fly fishing. They've caught millions of fish because they work reliably when tied correctly. Master them, and you'll never lose a fish to knot failure again.

The trout don't care about your casting technique or your expensive rod if your knots fail. Knots are the foundation of everything else in fly fishing. Build that foundation properly, and everything else becomes easier.

Stock up on quality tippet, leaders, and knot-tying tools from our accessories collection. And explore our blog for more essential technique guides that help you catch more fish.

Now get out there and practice. Your next trophy fish is depending on knots you haven't tied yet.